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What role fashion can play in bleak times? As France — and much of Europe — grapple with the seemingly inexorable rise of far-right parties, headline-grabbing lawsuits tied to the #MeToo movement, alongside the global downturn of the luxury sector, designers at Paris Fashion Week, which culminated on Tuesday, felt it time to ask.

The notion of heritage provided comfort for some, while others embraced surrealism and more high octane designs in collections which reflected a desire to escape.
At Chloé, Chemena Kamali continued building her boho chic fantasy, reinterpreting the ethos of the founder. Drawing on the “the essence of Chloé’s roots as a starting point,” the collection included floral prints, plays on ‘flou’ (ruffled shirts), pleated sleeves, billowy blouses and laced ballerina pumps for an airy allure the house has long been known for.
Valentino held its hotly anticipated show on Sunday, the first designed by the label’s new creative director Alessandro Michele who has come to the house from Gucci. Michele delved into Valentino’s archives, most notably its ‘70s heyday, and emerged with a vintage-inspired collection that was rich in details: from lashings of bows, polka dots and lace gloves to sequins — flourishes that might only be visible off camera.

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